The Bazaar At Dawn: Eating in Istanbul

“Hoşgeldiniz! Balık satılık. Hoşgeldiniz!” The vendor catches up to me a block into the waking bazaar. “Hoşbulduk, günaydın,” I say back out of politeness. He’s selling fish, and I don’t eat fish. Besides, it’s five in the morning. The fog is just beginning to lift as I make my way through Kadikoy, a blue-collar neighborhood on…